To string together such a wealth of nuclear neighborhoods, our city requires a certain amount of connective tissue. There’s a sense of calm in these pockets where it can be assumed everyone in sight is either a local or on their way to somewhere more important. The corner of Olympic and Westwood is classic LA purgatory, a junction that seems primarily to serve people heading to and from Westwood Village, Cheviot Hills, and Little Osaka. This is no knock on such locales; to stumble across a special restaurant in one of our many dining hubs is always a treat, but to do so in a little corner of nowhere remains a deeply personal experience.
Hijo De Su Madre is a small family operation tucked into the lower level of a two-story strip mall, beckoning passers-by with a siren song of tacos, burritos, and bowls. Upon stepping in it becomes apparent that this is only the hook – – the menu has a proud regional focus on the Yucatan peninsula, with a host of unique local dishes from Kibis to Sikil Pak. Even their nods to fusion, the Banh Mi burrito and taco, are a close spiritual cousin to Yucatecan cuisine with their burst of fresh cilantro, chilies and pickled slaw.
The narrow lot is roughly half dining room and half kitchen. Between the more voyeuristic set-ups and those where even the entry points to the kitchen are carefully hidden, this approach splits the difference nicely – – it feels akin to taking a seat in a friend’s kitchen nook.
Their No Stas Cochinita burrito is voluminous but approachable, packed full of griddle-charred corn, jackfruit, black beans, quinoa and cabbage. The sweet corn and tangy jackfruit play off each other like Lennon and McCartney, but the crisp shear of the cabbage and delicate quinoa pearls may ultimately be what make this a unique burrito for most diners. Those more accustomed to rice in such assemblies may expect the starch to soak up the free juices after some time and lose all delineation between the grains, but one could take this burrito for the road and still enjoy a deeply juicy marinated jackfruit and joyous pops of pearly quinoa at one’s own table. If ordered with guacamole, as the chef recommends, the barrier of nutty fat may also give you a better shot at preserving your tortilla. It’s a wonderfully creamy guacamole worthy of its own attention, smashed and emulsified just shy of peakiness, lightly salted but with a strong acidity.
The “Taste of Yucatan” sampler dish comes with the Longaniza Con Papa taco, a Jackfruit Cochinita tamale, and a Panucho topped with a fine mound of undressed cabbage slaw, slices of fresh avocado, thick-cut pickled onions and king trumpet mushrooms that have been pulled, marinated and seared. The crackly panucho and the smoky pibil-style mushrooms are delightful, but ultimately the pickled onions steal the show. These are no flaccid strands of overcooked onion that merely play vessel to the brine – – the diameter of the cut allows the core to retain some crunch and sharpness while the sweet vinegar properly penetrates the mantle.
The tender and aromatic exterior of the Jackfruit Cochinita Tamale is livened by a sweet chiltomate salsa that’s quite mild but still manages to surface the signature habanero flavor – – this sauce would be an excellent order for the heat-shy yet habanero-curious who have not had a chance to savor the gentler side of this pepper.
The Longaniza Con Papa taco bears a house-made sausage scrambled with a plant-based egg. Small but uniform cubes of potato allow for an even roast, and they retain a remarkable crunch even under a hearty mound of the aforementioned house guacamole. This immaculate crust may have something to do with the finely crosshatched bed of cabbage that elevates the longaniza and roasted potato off the tortilla like a baker’s cooling rack.
The word “Vegan” erupts off Hijo De Su Madre’s facade, more prominent even than the name of the restaurant. This is a mission statement in its own right, a proclamation that they refuse to play coy with the buzzier and ever-vague “plant based” descriptor. This same assuredness bears itself out in their flavors as well as their broader marriage of heritage and purpose. Veganizing heirloom recipes is a powerful way to reconcile our past with the brighter future we want to build, and our present is made all the more special for Hijo De Su Madre’s presence in our dining landscape.
